Do It Yourself - Laos
Exploring Nam Et Phouy Louey National Park
The Peoples Democratic Republic of Lao (Lao PDR) is a small land-locked country in Indochina, South-east Asia. It largely goes under the radar of most wildlife-watching tourists however the country has a lot to offer those keen on exploring some of the most pristine and extensive forests in the region.
Forty years ago the country was annihilated by bombing with an estimated 250 million bombs dropped over an eight year period, that’s the equivalent of 2.5 tonnes of bombs for each citizen of the country averaging bombing raids every 8 minutes for the duration of the war. Shocking statistics. It’s quite remarkable that anything survived but in the north-eastern corner of the country Nam Et Phouy Louey National Park (pronounced “naam-et-poo-luy”) has proved an oasis.
Extending over 500,000 hectares, the forest is still roamed by the likes of Gaur and Asian Elephant whilst Clouded Leopard and Asian Golden Cat prowl by night. Asian Black and Sun Bears still occur as well as a plethora of smaller carnivores including the little-known Owston’s Civet and beautiful Spotted Linsang. In 1998, over 40 species of bats were recorded at Nam Et Phouy Louey (NEPL), of which three were new to Lao PDR and the park is home to a population of Critically Endangered Northern White-cheeked Gibbon.
In November 2019 we visited the national park and undertook a four-day trek up over the summit of Phouy Louey to see what we could find. The park has engaged the local communities and employs a number of people from the surrounding villages in providing services such as guiding, tracking, cooking and portering. In turn, revenue from tourists is distributed into the communities.
The trek requires a good level of fitness and climbs continuously through forest to reach the summit at 2257m, the third highest peak in Laos. The summit forest is often shrouded in cloud, and lichens, mosses and liverworts drip from the limbs of stunted trees and Rhododendrons with verdancy. Here Chestnut-tailed Minla’s and Rufous-winged Fulvetta’s bounce from branch to branch whilst migrant Siberian and Eye-browed Thrushes from further north forage on berry-laden shrubs. The rare Spot-breasted Laughing-thrush is also relatively easy to hear (a little more difficult to see!) here too. NEPL is probably the best place in the world to actually see Spot-breasted Laughing-thrush.
Rufous-winged Fulvettas are noticeable at higher elevations
Close to the summit epiphytes festoon the boughs of Rhododendrons and other smaller trees and shrubs. Our wildlife tracker searches for signs of Clouded Leopard, Owston’s Civet and many more exciting species.
Beautiful, contorted forest close to the summit of Nam Et Phouy Louey
Some of the larger trees along the trail bear evidence of the forests’ top predators with scratch marks from Clouded Leopard, still not uncommon, and more weathered marks estimated to be 12 years old from Tigers, a species now close to extinction, if not extinct in the park due to poaching.
Our guide and tracker point out Clouded Leopard scratch marks above head-height!
Following our trek we had two nights at the Nam Nern Night Safari, an exciting navigation up the narrow and fast-flowing mountain river to a camp from where you explore further by boat in search of both nocturnal and diurnal wildlife. The Night Safari operates a bonus system for local communities based on the number of animals spotted during nocturnal safaris and has proved immensely successful in increasing the numbers of species such as Sambar and Red Muntjac, both heavily hunted in this region. The presence of good herbivore populations has also meant that species such as Golden Cat and Dhole are also doing well here. Smaller carnivores include the stunning Spotted Linsang as well as commoner civets can also be found. During the daytime the difficult to see Blyth’s Kingfisher can be found along the upper reaches of the river and we encountered at least two pairs.
Getting up to our comfortable camp is an exhilarating boat ride up the Nam Nern river expertly navigated by the boatmen.
A Common Palm Civet watches down from a riverside tree
Blyth’s Kingfisher, whilst being quite widely distributed in Southern Asia is notoriously difficult to see
The camp is very comfortable and well serviced with the guides producing some delicious food. After arrival and settling in you may have some time to explore the trails close to the camp. Following that you will head upstream several kilometres where dinner will be served on one of the sandbars - a great way to spend the evening! Once darkness has fallen you then drift back downstream to the camp over a couple of hours. The boatmen expertly navigate you through the torrents, spotlight for animals and stabilise the boat for you to watch, it’s quite incredible!
Do it Yourself:
Find out more
You can visit Nam Et and Nam Nern by booking through the park website here:
They can arrange or at least advise of transportation to and from the park as well as other areas to visit including the Plain of Jars.
Alternatively, if you are just interested in the Nam Nern Night Safari you can find out more here:
When to visit
From October through to February local climatic conditions are very pleasant, and at night it can be quite cool, even very cold at times. Later in the season, from March to June the temperatures begin to rise and trekking becomes more arduous in the hot, humid conditions. The rainy season runs between June and September and the trekking sites are closed. The Nam Nern River Safari however, can be operated almost all year round, except during extreme flooding events which can occur during the rainy season.
Getting there and surroundings
The park headquarters and tourism visitor centre is located in Muang Hiam town, in Houaphan Province, approximatively a 200km drive east from Luang Prabang UNESCO Heritage city. The park can also be reached via Xiengkhouang (Phonsavanh) also a 200km drive from the town’s domestic airport. Phonsavanh is also the location of the Plain of Jars UNESCO site. In addition to the 2 UNESCO sites, Houaphan Province is well known for its war heritage sites, including the Vieng Xai caves. Luang Prabang airport serves regular international flights from most Asian capitals.
DIY or customise your tour?
Whilst we don’t currently offer a set departure to Laos, if you are interested in exploring NEPL and elsewhere in Laos we can happily create a custom made tour for you and your friends. Just get in touch!
Even as we departed the Nam Nern Nigh Safari we still encountered these Crab-eating Mongoose as well as an Otter species and Samba just on the drift back down stream.